Ndikukula kwakukula kwakukula ndikufufuza kwa ogwiritsa ntchito ma surfactants, ntchito zake zikukulirakulira. Pakadali pano, opanga mahatchi akhala zigawo zikuluzikulu za zotsukira, ndipo alinso ndi ntchito zofunikira kwambiri zodzola, monga emulsifying, dispers, solubilizing, foaming and cleaning in zodzoladzola.

1) Emulsification

Chodabwitsa cha emulsifying zinthu zosasungunuka madzi m'madzi kuti apange emulsion amatchedwa emulsification. Emulsifiers amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiri popanga mafuta ndi mafuta odzola. Kawirikawiri powdery kirimu ndi kirimu wosalowerera ndi mitundu yonse ya 0 / W emulsions, yomwe imatha kupangidwanso ndi sopo ya anionic emulsifier fatty acid (sopo). Ndikosavuta kukonzekera ma emulsions ndi mafuta ocheperako ndi sopo emulsification, ndipo mawonekedwe a sopo atha kukhala kuti akhale ndi mamasukidwe akayendedwe. Kwa mafuta ozizira okhala ndi mafuta ambiri, ma emulsions amakhala makamaka mtundu wa W / O, ndipo lanolin wachilengedwe wokhala ndi mayamwidwe akulu amadzi ndi mamasukidwe akayendedwe angagwiritsidwe ntchito emulsification. Pakadali pano, emulsifier wosagwiritsa ntchito ionic yemwe amagwiritsa ntchito ndikuti emulsifier yopanda ionic ndiyotetezeka ndipo imakwiya pang'ono. Wotchuka wa sorbitan fatty acid ester (Span) ndi ethylene oxide adduct (Tween) ndi abwino ophatikiza ma ion emulsifiers. Span ndi lipophilic ndipo Tween ndi hydrophilic, ndipo awiriwa ndi osakanikirana. Amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu emulsions a O / W, amatha kupanga ma emulsions ndikukhazikika komanso mawonekedwe apakhungu.

2) Kukhazikika

Chodabwitsa chowonjezera kusungunuka kwa zinthu zosungunuka pang'ono kapena zosungunuka kumatchedwa solubilization. Wogwiritsa ntchito mafundewo akawonjezeredwa m'madzi, mafunde am'madzi amatsika kwambiri poyamba, kenako ma micole of the surfactant molecule amapangidwa. Magulu a omwe amagwiritsa ntchito popanga micelles amatchedwa ndende yovuta kwambiri ya micelle. Wogwira ntchitoyo akafika pamayeso ovuta a micelle, micelle imatha kuyamwa mafuta kapena tinthu tolimba kumapeto amodzi a lipophilic, motero kukulitsa kusungunuka kwa chinthu chosungunuka kapena chosungunuka.

Zosungunulira zodzoladzola zimagwiritsidwa ntchito popanga ma lotions, tsitsi tonic, ndi tsitsi tonic. Ma Surfactants omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati solubilizers ayenera kukhala ndi hydrophilicity, HLB> 15, monga polyoxyethylene hardened castor oil, mafuta a polyoxyethylene castor, mafuta oledzeretsa polyoxyethylene ether, mafuta oledzeretsa polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene Ether, polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester ndi polyglycerin fatty etc.

Mafuta opangira zodzoladzola, monga zonunkhira, mafuta, ndi mavitamini osungunuka mafuta, ali ndi mayunitsi osiyanasiyana chifukwa chosiyana kapangidwe kake ndi polarity. Chifukwa chake, oyenera kuchita ma surfactant ayenera kusankhidwa kuti akhale solubilizers. Mwachitsanzo, zinthu zosungunulira mafuta odzola ndi mafuta onunkhira, mafuta ndi mankhwala, ndi zina zambiri, kotero alkyl polyoxyethylene ethers itha kugwiritsidwa ntchito popanga mafuta. Ngakhale alkylphenol polyoxyethylene ethers (mtundu wa OP, mtundu wa TX) ali ndi mphamvu zosungunulira, zimakhumudwitsa m'maso ndipo sizigwiritsidwa ntchito. Kuphatikiza apo, mafuta amtundu wa amphoteric omwe ali ndi castor ali ndi kusungunuka kwabwino kwamafuta onunkhira ndi mafuta a masamba, ndipo opanga mafundewo samakhumudwitsa m'maso ndipo ndioyenera kukonzekera ma shampoo osakhumudwitsa ndi zodzoladzola zina.

3) Kubalalika

Chodabwitsa chomwe zinthu zosasungunuka ndi madzi zimapanga tinthu tomwe timabalalika m'madzi amatchedwa kupezeka. Zodzoladzola zimaphatikizira magawo atatu: ufa, zosungunulira ndi zotsalira. Ufa ungagawidwe m'magulu awiri: mitundu isanu ndi iwiri (monga talc, mica, titaniyamu dioxide, mpweya wakuda, ndi zina zambiri) ndi mitundu yakuda (monga phthalocyanine buluu, ndi zina), makamaka kuti zodzoladzola zizikhala ndi utoto wabwino, zingathe kuphimba mtundu wakumbuyo, ndipo mugwiritse ntchito ma Solvents agawidwa m'magulu awiri: opangira madzi komanso opanda madzi. Omwazika omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati media ndi hydrophilic (yogwiritsidwa ntchito pamakina amadzi) ndi lipophilic (yogwiritsa ntchito njira zopanda madzi). Chifukwa chake, dongosololi limaphatikiza zingapo.

Ma surfactants ambiri omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito mu dispersants onse ndi emulsifiers komanso dispersants, monga mafuta a mowa polyoxyethylene ethers, sorbitan fatty acid esters, mafuta amafuta polyoxyethylene ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates ndi alkyl ether. Sulfonate, ndi ena onse, ali ndi zinthu zabwino zomwazika. Pofuna kuti ufa ufale bwino m'madzimo, madziwo amayenera kunyowetsa pamwamba pake. Chifukwa chake, posankha wogwira ntchito pamagetsi, choyamba ganizirani za HLB ya ufa komanso malo obalalika. Nthawi zambiri, mukamagwiritsa ntchito ufa wa lipophilic m'madzi, opangira ma hydrophilic ayenera kugwiritsidwa ntchito makamaka.

4) Kukonza zotsatira

Zogulitsa zanu zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito poyeretsa zimaphatikizapo shampu, gel osamba ndi kuyeretsa nkhope. Kuphatikiza pa kuyeretsa, kuchita thobvu komanso kusungunula ntchito, chomwe chimaganiziridwa pakadali pano ndikufatsa kwa khungu. Izi zimafuna kuti wogwira ntchitoyo asawononge ma epidermal cell, samakhudza mapuloteni apakhungu, komanso salowerera kapena kulowa pakhungu. Kusunga mafuta akhungu ndi khungu lokha mokhazikika.

Omwe amagwiritsira ntchito ma Anionic amakhala ndi mbiri yakale yoyeretsa. Kutsekemera kwa sopo sikungafanane ndi zotsukira zina. Sodium lauryl sulphate ndi zinthu zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito popangira zodzoladzola, zimatha kupangitsa khungu kukhala loyeretsera. Amphoteric surfactants, imidazoline, cocamidopropyl betaine ndi amino acid zonsezi ndizoyambitsa kuyeretsa pang'ono, ndipo ndizofunikira pakukonzekera kwa kuyeretsa kwapamwamba kwamaso, shampoo zosamalira tsitsi ndi shampoo za ana.

5) Zofewa komanso zotsutsana

Othandizira a Cationic ndizomwe zimakongoletsa kwambiri zinthu zopangira tsitsi monga ma conditioner ndi ma conditioner. Ali ndi kufewa kwabwino komanso kuthana ndi antistatic ndipo amatenga gawo lapadera pakukongoletsa tsitsi. Omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito kwambiriopanga cationic ali monoalkyl ndi dialkyl quaternary amchere amchere, yomwe ndi C16-18 monoalkyl ammonium salt, iwiri C16-18 alkyl quaternary amchere amchere ndipo alkylbenzyl quaternary ammonium salt. Kukula pang'ono,octyl dimethyl quaternary ammonium mchere ndi 3-cetyl methyl ammonium salt, mchere wamtunduwu wa quaternary umakhala ndi zotsatirapo zabwino pakamauma kouma, kapeso konyowa komanso kutsitsa tsitsi. Posachedwa, chomwe chimakopa maso kwambiri ndi mchere wa quaternary ammonium wochokera ku lanolin fatty acid. Sichikukwiyitsa ndipo chimasungira madzi lanolin komanso mawonekedwe akeopanga cationic, Zomwe zimatha kupangitsa tsitsi kukhala lonyowa komanso lapadera monga kufewa.

6) Kuthira ndi kulowa

Monga zodzoladzola, siziyenera kukhala ndi zokongola zokha, komanso zimakhala zomasuka komanso zofewa zikagwiritsidwa ntchito. Izi ndizosagawanika chifukwa cha kunyowetsa kwa opanga mafunde. Pankhaniyi, biosurfactants akwaniritsa zotsatira zabwino. Monga gawo lofunikira lamaselo achilengedwe, phospholipids imagwira ntchito yofunika kwambiri pama cell a metabolism ndi ma cell membrane permeation, ndipo amakhala ndi chinyezi chabwino komanso khungu la munthu. Sophorolipid biosurfactants ali ndi mawonekedwe apadera pakhungu, lomwe limatha kupangitsa khungu kukhala lofewa komanso lofewa. Kugwiritsa ntchito kaphatikizidwe wamankhwala am'magazi komanso njira zina pokonzekera zinthu zofananira zamagetsi ndi mavitamini, kukonzekera kwa ma enzyme, kukula kwa maselo (EGF, DFGF), collagen, elastin, ceramide ndi hyaluronic acid, ndi zina zambiri, zinthuzi zitha kugwiritsidwa ntchito zodzikongoletsera. Likulowerera pakhungu, limachita nawo kagayidwe kake ka khungu ndi khungu, limasintha mawonekedwe amtundu wa khungu, ndi zina zambiri, kuti akwaniritse zotsatira za anti-khwinya, anti-ukalamba ndi kuyeretsa.